Cane Creek Double Barrel Air Service Manual
Oil will gravity drain into the shock to replace that evacuated space. Cycle the shock a few times like this. Eventually, you’ll get to the point where you hear nothing in the shock but oil. Push the IFP all the way in and pull it back out 5mm. Remove the bleed adapter and put the bleed screw back in.
Here’s all the major O-Rings you need to carry out a DIY service on your cane creek double barrel air. Cane creek double barrel. Instruction manual and. I can not understand why Cane Creek does. CCDB service manual. (eg your claim of 200 euros for a CCDB service from TFTuned being close to double what they. Please call a Cane Creek technical service representative. Use compressed air to blow away all debris. Documents Similar To Cane Creek Double Barrel Instructions. Cane Creek's Dialed Tuning App - First. I ride a Cane Creek DB Air CS. Instructional videos and a visual and auditory representation of how your Double Barrel.
It is working great! I've released the air from the air spring after every ride to check the damper and it is still moving smoothly and has not let in any air. No question, I'll be doing this every time I need a rebuild for my shock.
Bing, where do you work? Marcus, I figured that as well with the IFP tool. I'm assuming the tool is needed to keep the IFP stationary while you cycle the oil since the nitrogen charge volume isn't filled during the bleed. Trying to cycle the oil back and forth without the tool would shoot the IFP out of the chamber (I'm assuming). The tool itself looks like you could make a quick hack job tool. I would guess Cane Creek will not sell the IFP tool and even if they did, it would probably cost a ridiculous amount. Do you know what thread size the IFP is?
Every hole was stripped. I recall reading a thread on MTBr before discussing this problem with the CCDB Air on the Specialized Enduro.
Figure 5: Main piston shim stack. In some designs adjusters ar e added to the reservoir passage as well. The De Carbon style shocks function very well if adjusted properly. Unfortunately, the external adjusters are limited in their range. The rebound bleed valve works primarily on low speed damping. Thus, it has little ef fect on high speed m ovement.
Pressurize the IFP chamber. Remove the circlip. Put the gold cap back in. Put the circlip back in. Make sure the black screw is in on the gold cap over the rubber cap or it will shoot out when you start pumping.
Cane Creek Double Barrel Rebuild
You can see that the valves lead to compressor fittings. On one side I have my compressor hooked up and on the other, my vacuum pump. Speaking of which, I picked up this vacuum pump It was $80 on Amazon and had no problems pulling a 24” to 26”Hg vacuum. Here is the final, completed setup. The pressure tube (the one that will fill the shock with oil) goes into the top of the container and through the push to connect fitting down into the container and into the new shock oil.
It is much easier to mess up your bikes with this many adjustments so keep that in mind. Make adjustments slowly and do one at a time. Luckily a few years ago Cane Creek created the feature on their website. It allows you to choose a frame and shock and gives you numbers to start from.
You have immediate feedback on the trail. All these features work together t o create the perfect perfor mance for your unique riding style and conditions. In order to better understand the function of the Double Barrel shock, it is helpful to have some background in the science behind dampers. Dampers are basically energy absorbers. They accomplish this by slowing the flow of oil though various types of valves. Because oil is nearly incompressible, it is a good fluid for precise damping control.
Once this happens, they need to be replaced. They may look ok to the naked eye, but they’ll never hold a seal if your oil is filled with bits and pieces of o-ring that have worn away. So, the vacuum bleed procedure was posted later on in this thread and got me thinking about doing this myself.
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Cane Creek supplies the instructions to get your shock to this point if you want to make volume adjustments to the air can. You’ll then need to get some tools in order to crack open the air can. You’ll need an external bottom bracket tool.
It felt like it had no damping. Sure enough, I released all air pressure and felt air gurgling around in the damper. I was fairly certain the o-rings and quad rings had just given out and fell apart. Turns out, I was correct. Here’s my shock in pieces. I let the oil I removed from the shock settle for a while since it looked very cloudy. I soon discovered why after inspecting it the next day.
I'll try to fix it to see if they come back. Lastly, I came to the same conclusion you did about my poor feeling damper. I started to notice that my air can was losing air again, but there weren't any signs that my o-rings were going bad. I couldn't figure it out. Then I came to the realization that my poor feeling damper was probably because the air from the air spring was migrating into the damper. You scared the hell out of me making me think my damper shaft is scratched.
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If you have a CS, remove that first to get to the damper setting screws. I like seeing the mini-shim stack on the high speed fittings! There is a small spring in the hole on the low speed needles. Don’t lose it. That is what pushes the detent balls outward in the chamber so that you can feel the detents.
There was a TON of air in my damper. Be extremely careful unscrewing the internal seal head.
So, now that the vacuum system is complete, it is time to rebuild the shock. Take apart the shock as listed in the DB rebuild manual. Make sure to release the nitrogen from the IFP chamber (as listed in the DB manual). It would be unsafe to take this shock apart without doing so. You’ll need a needle system just like Fox shocks.
On the DB coil shock you can to use the bottom-out bumper on the shock shaft to measure the sag by temporarily pushing it to other end, but ensure you wind off any preload first. Make these sag adjustments in your riding kit, including a pack if you use one. Top tip: If you’re using a coil shock ensure you have the correct spring rate. Use the online spring calculator at if you’re unsure. Low speed rebound The first setting to adjust is the low-speed rebound.
Trying to cycle the oil back and forth without the tool would shoot the IFP out of the chamber (I'm assuming). The tool itself looks like you could make a quick hack job tool. I would guess Cane Creek will not sell the IFP tool and even if they did, it would probably cost a ridiculous amount. Do you know what thread size the IFP is?
This was much better than what it was before. Speaking of the air piston rubbing the sides of my air can, here is what I was greeted with when I opened my air can for the first time: That’s not dirt. That’s o-ring (or in this instance, quad ring) scuz. The constant side load I think caused the quad ring to wear out very quickly and turn to mush. This is what caused my air can problems and as such, is the most important part to replace for this service.